So Much to See

So much to see in Ile de France and around the village of Arbonne

**Please note that we are indicating the sights that are within an hour radius more or less of the Papillon Mignon with stars. The remainder of the list is located within 2 hours of the chateau.

The History of Ile de France, the heart of the French nation, is the History of France itself.

Some Of Our Favorite Sights Are:

Palaces

You know Versailles, but do you know of the many interesting but lesser-known sights to see in Versailles?

The Potager du Roy

The king’s vegetable garden started as a magnificent experiment. Today, it is one of the most extraordinary gardens in Europe. It is used by botanists as an example of one of the “best gardens” in Europe. Explorers returning from ventures to North and South America and the Caribbean knew they would please Louis XIV by presenting him with botanical offerings. The garden has evolved into the cradle of modern agriculture.

Le Hameau

It was built by Louis XVI for Marie Antoinette, who was said to be growing with discontent for her husband. The architects designed a lake and a little village around the banks of the extensive Versailles Park. Even Marie Antoinette, who was said to be one of the most lavish queens in history, wished at times to live a “bucolic life” with a little house, a vegetable garden and a stable of animals. It is ironic that while Marie Antoinette harvested her tender vegetables, seeds of revolt took root in Paris!

**Chateau de Fontainebleau

This magnificent palace dates back to the 16th century, although additions were made by various royal incumbents over 300 years. Construction of the palace was begun under flamboyant Renaissance King François I. According to Napoleon I, the chateau holds memories of the monarchs of France from the 12th century to the end of the 19th century. It is fascinating to visit the Renaissance halls by passing through the famous François I gallery and the magnificent ballroom, the royal apartments and the newly restored interior apartment of Napoleon I.

**Château de la Motte- Tilly (near Provins)

It was decorated for the Marquise de Maille. The château evoked the gracious lifestyle of the 15th century that she sought to recapture in her redecorating of the estate.

Château d’Anet commissioned by Diane de Poitiers. (mistress of Henry II)

(30 min. from Versailles)

This château was commissioned by Diane de Poitiers, mistress of Henry II. Diane was the beautiful young widow of a nobleman 40 years her senior. While still a teenager, she learned to ride and hunt. These skills made her renowned for the rest of her life. Henry II fell in love with Diane when he was barely 15, and she was in her thirties. What began as an adolescent crush, evolved into profound love that lasted through his marriage to Catherine de Medici.

Château and Parc de St. Jean de Beauregard

St. Jean de Beauregard is a furnished château, still inhabited today. It has outbuildings, a park, a flower garden, stables, and a pigeon loft with 4000 nesting spaces and a drinking trough. It is an excellent example of the way of life in the 17th century.
Two plant shows are held here for gardening enthusiasts. One is in April, and the other is in November. They allow one to discover rare and unusual vegetables.

Chateau d’Auvers-sur-Oise

Here there is a Renaissance chateau, housing paintings of Impressionists Pisarro, Cézanne and Van Gogh. There is a fabulous tour that takes you through 15 of the rooms. It features interior decoration and presentations of the Impressionist style. Outside the chateau is a lovely park and formal gardens.

** Chateau de Vaux-le-Vicomte (20 minutes from Le Papillon Mignon)

Vaux le Vicomte (phone 0164144190, email chateau@vaux-le-vicomte.com)
    This spectacular chateau served as the model for Versailles. Louis XIV visited the chateau’s inauguration in 1661 and left in a “huff” when he envied its extravagance and beauty. Every year, on September 9-12, there is an open-air opera held in the front garden, using the chateau as a back drop. This season was La Traviata, last year Puccini’s La Boheme. Sitting in this regal setting, you can’t help but imagine the splendor in 1661 when the carriages arrived along this beautiful tree-lined path with famous guests such as Moliere.
    Nicolas Foquet (whose family motto was “to what heights will he climb”) was then Minister of Finance to Louis XIV. He commissioned the best workmen of his time, including La Notre for landscaping, La Vaux as architect, and Le Brun for painting and decorating. All were essentially unknown when discovered by Fouquet. They finished this chateau in a remarkable 5 years and went on to construct Versailles, in which Louis XIV even adopted Vaux’s “sun palace” theme and called himself “le roi soleil.”
    The land was originally occupied by several villages. Legions of men and animals cleared away old settlements, one of which was Vaux le Vicomte. They filled in the valleys and leveled hills until the terrain was flat.
    The inauguration included a ballet and a concert of 24 violins. The dinner was prepared by M. Vatel (then France’s most famed chef), and the dinner was presented on dishes of gleaming vermeil. The evening concluded with 400 fireworks exploding like fleur-de-lis; others sailed in the form of a galleon on the grand canal, and for the climax, there was a burst of flames high over the chateau’s dome. Louis XIV stormed away outraged that a subject dared to out stage the monarch. Nineteen days later Foquet (“to what depths will he fall”), was arrested on embezzlement charges and thrown into jail. Not until 1664 was the disgraced minister brought to trial. In spite of his proven devotion and although little evidence could be produced to incriminate him, for the first time in the history of France, the chief of state increased punishment of the accused. Louis XIV asked for life imprisonment instead of banishment which had been recommended by the court. Fouquet ended his days in prison in 1680.
    One of our favorite areas of the chateau today is the bell tower. It not only shows the fascinating structural “underbelly” of this magnificent home, 350 years later, but is a treat when you look out, in all directions, at the incredible gardens and grounds.
    The gardens are also at their best when they are turned on each month. April-October, 3-6 p.m. At nightfall the façade and the rooms of this 17th century masterpiece are lit up by thousands of candles. The candlelit tour continues into the garden designed by Le Notre, where you can listen to classical music until midnight, sitting comfortably in a deck chair under a star studded sky.

Museums

Oberkampf
The small museum of Oberkampf is dedicated to the toiles fabrics housed in the chateau at Jouy en Josas near Versailles. Newly painted fabrics were laid out to dry in the surrounding fields. This created a huge patchwork of toiles. It must have captivated passing noblemen on their way to court. A continuous stream of noble coaches carried away a fortune of fabrics everyday.

Musee d’Art et d’Histoire (St. Denis)
This is the former Carmelite convent where Louise de France stayed. This museum presents six hundred objects discovered during archeological excavations. One can also admire the extravagant chapel.

Musée Sceaux (Moored in Bougival across from Croissy Island)
It depicts the frolic and high times of the Impressionist painters. Renoir and Manet used to gather for reputedly wild weekends at the floating tavern, La Grenovitiere.

Musee de l’Absinthe (Avers-sur-Oise)
A muse, a fairy, then a sorceress. This absinthe drink has become a legend, swathed in the forbidden. It was favored by painters, but was prohibited in 1915. The “green fairy” is associated with Bohemian life in the 19th century.

Musee de la Maison Fournaise (Chatou)
It is located in the Ils des Impressionists at Chatou, the Maison Founaise. It was the meeting place for painters during the second half of the 19th century. Renoir painted his famous work “The Boatman’s Lunch” here in 1881.

Musee du Domaine National de Saint-Cloud (Saint-Cloud)
In the 16th century, the Gondi family, wealthy financiers from Florence, commissioned the construction of a residence surrounded by vast terraced gardens on a slope overlooking the Seine. It was later purchased by Marie Antoinette in 1785.

Musee Rodin (Meudon)
This museum helps one better understand the artistic approach of the sculptor and the appreciation of his personality. Rodin resided in Meudon in 1895. Here there is a three hectare estate overlooking Paris.

Musee Utrillo (Sannois)
As well as the unique collection of canvases by Maurice Utrillo, there is a fascinating reconstruction of the artist’s studio.

**The Old Inn of Father Ganne
This tiny museum in Barbison was one of the preferred bistros of the Barbison artists. The rooms of the Old Inn are reconstructed with painted furniture. Bedrooms and dormitories have murals and paintings from the same artist.

Giverny Chateau and Grounds (Train transportation advised)
This is Monet’s former home and has a lush oriental water garden. Monet was captivated by the rambling old pink farmhouse. He spotted it from a train in the 1880s. It is set at the foot of a hill, just a few minutes from the Seine. It is here, that Renoir came to meet writer Guy de Maupassant and where he captured the lively, luminous afternoons in his painting “The Boatman’s Lunch.”

Chateau de Champs
It is an 18th century manor beautifully decorated with Louis XV furniture.

Malmaison
This was the home of Josephine, the first wife of Napoleon Bonaparte. It was Napoleon’s favorite residence. He continued visiting there even after his divorce from Josephine. The house is a repository of treasures from the Empire years. The interior design and furnishings reflect the taste and style of Josephine. Located only six miles from Paris, it is presently an atelier of contemporary artist Saint Amand.

The 17th Century Home of Jean Louis Lecart, Mayor of Monfort L’Amaury
This home was the setting for a bucolic informal literary salon. Among the guests were Gertrude Stein and the composer Maurice Ravel.

Ateliers and Homes of Famous People

** Maison Atelier of Jean François Millet
This home, although now a store, is full of the photographs and moments evoking the artist's career. It is here that Millet painted some of his most renowned paintings.

Foundation Elsa Triolet and Louis Aragon (Saint -Arnoult-en-Yvelines)
The Moulin de Villeneuve and the park with 5 hectares of land has remained as it was when Aragon left. The atmosphere and warmth are preserved. Each room decorated by Elsa, strongly reminds us of Russia. The color blue, the rattan and many books are everywhere.

L’atelier de Daubigny (Auvers-sur-Oise)
Built in 1861, the Maison de Daubigny was the first abode of the artist. The studio of the painter was decorated by its regular visitors Corot, Daumier, Oudinot and the Daubigny family.

Maison André Derain La Roseraie (Chambourcy)
Set in a beautiful 18th century residence, the painter André Derain, one of the founders of Fauvism, had his studio here. Everything has remained as it was when he was alive.

**Home of Theodore Rousseau
It is in a converted barn next to the chapel of St. Paul.

Maison Atelier Foujita (Villiers-Le-Bacle)
The Franco-Japanese painters intimate little country house is here. It was renovated by the painter at the beginning of the 1960s. On the top floor, the artist’s studio has been kept intact. His paints, models and murals are also here, showing the richness and secrets of a creative soul.

Musee Claude Debussy (St. Germain-En-Laye)
At the house where Debussy was born, the life and works of the composer are portrayed by means of his personal possessions and musical scores.

** La Grange Bateliére
This is a thatched house by the Loing, where Georges Clemenceau once lived. He was known as the "Tiger" in World War I. His taste for Asian art and his friendship with Claude Monet are evident in his home.

Musée Jean-Jacques Rousseau (Montmorency)
This is a charming little building where the philosopher lived. The interior was restored using furnishings which belonged to Rousseau at L’Ermitage. It allows us to see a key period of the writer’s life. This is where some of his greatest works of literature and philosophy were written.

Musée Maurice Ravel (Montfort de L’Amaury)
Ravel decorated the house himself according to his tastes. It includes a little garden of his own design with a panoramic view from the balcony.

**Musée de Provins et du Provinois (Provins)
This museum contains collections linked to the history and archeology of Provins. One room is devoted to ceramics. There are also Greco-Roman statues.

Other Sites of Interest:
Abbaye de Royaumont
This monastery has a refectory, a cloister, a chapel, a great hall, a farm and the remains of a 13th century church.

Abbaye Notre Dame de la Roche (St. Denis)
This abbey was restored and used as an orphanage. One century later, nuns set up a garden school. It remains today as a center for horticulture.

Abbaye des Vaux de Cernay (Cernay-La-Ville-Chevreuse)
Dating from the 12th century this Cistercian abbey has been converted into a private house and is classified as a historical monument.

**Chapelle Saint Blaise des Simples (Milly-la-Foret)
This contains the sole remains of a former lazer house. This building from the 12th century, is surrounded by medieval plants. Joan Cocteau, who is buried inside the chapel, decorated the interior walls, taking medieval plants (simples) as his theme.

**Prievré Saint Pierre Aux Liens de Pont-Loup (Moret Sur Loing)
This is a priory, established at the beginning of the 12th century as an annex to the Abbaye de Vezelay. Located outside the walls of Moret, the buildings were seriously damaged and partly destroyed during the wars of the 14th century. In 1383 only four monks remained with the prior. The church was built during the 12th century and was used as a bark store for the tanning mills in the 19th century. After being deconsecrated, this beautiful church is now used for exhibitions.

Sevres, St. Cloud, Chantilly, Porcelain Factories
Once china was introduced to Europe, supply from the Orient never kept up with the demand. Many local factories were founded with royal backing. Early efforts created a soft paste porcelain.

The Prix de Diane (Chantilly)
This is one of the most elegant horse races in the world. It is run every second Sunday in June. Here is the elite turf of the Hippodrome de Chantilly. Lavishly dressed spectators cheer from the stands. There are elegant tailgate luncheons and private tented garden parties, the most elegant hosted by Hermes. A different royal lady is invited to preside over the event each year. Among the day’s events are an antique automobile exhibition, a picnic, a costume parade and the Prix de Elegance. Each year, a woman is selected from the crowd for her elegance and style.

17^th century Les Dames de Saint Remy Semi
**Moulin de Chiennat (near Provins)
This is an ancient mill house of the 14th century which is surrounded by water on three sides. Deep in the open countryside, it has an exotic array of birds and animals.

Moulin de Sannois (Sannois)
It overlooks the town and is the most important mills in France. It is next door to the miller’s house, which was built in the 19th century. It is fun to try the “galette” with a bowl of fresh cider, while overlooking the Seine river.

Amphitheater Gallo-Romain (Beaumont-Sur-Oise)
This is the remains of a Gallo-Romain amphitheater which dates from the 2nd century.

**Le Cyclop
A monumental sculpture 22 meters in height that is found in the woods of Milly la Foret. It is the work of Jean Tinguley and Niki De Saint Phalle.

Special Fun Treats
Musee du Jouet (Poissy)
There are delightful tours of children’s toys and games from the 19th and 20th centuries. There is also the operation of the toys with the recreation of a magic lantern show.

Osmothèque Le Conservatoire International des Perfumes (Versailles)
There is a wonderful display of perfumes here. Visitors are able to smell over 1300 scents that have been brought together for the first time in history. The perfumes have been preserved using modern techniques.

**Chocolaterie de Lis (Nemours)
There is a chocolate factory here that also uses poppies for liqueurs and candies.

Picturesque Towns and Villages
** Provins
Feudal Provins, the "city of roses", is one of the region’s most interesting towns. Historic, romantic and beautiful, Provins soared to the pinnacle of its power and prosperity in the Middle Ages, then fell to ruin in the Hundred Years’ War, 1347-1453. There are a number of interesting sights to see in Provins:

The Medieval Festival
When we attended the medieval festival in Provins, we loved the preserved streets and townhouses around the square, the same that it had in the 13th and 14th centuries. Walking up and down the village streets during the festival was a delight! Entertainers paraded on stilts; dogs herded flocks of geese; villagers dressed just as their ancestors did in the 13th century. Hot skillets were hung over open fires and crepes were made for spectators. Fresh apple cider was juiced with a huge medieval hand-cranked wheel. Tables were set with the same medieval pottery, and people cooked recipes passed down from the 13th century. Huge antique ovens baked the same peasant bread. The horse and falcon shows delighted guests in the outdoor arenas.

Tythe Barn
The historical Tythe barn was first used as a covered marketplace for medieval merchants who sold their goods here. Then it was used as lodgings for merchants who traveled from far away. Later it was a warehouse for the tithes extracted from the faithful.

Tour César
This bell tower, dating from the 12th century, is a favorite of the villagers. A fire destroyed it in the 17th century. The church was restored with a vaguely baroque-looking dome, and it became the bell tower of the new church.

The Tunnels of Provins
Town historians don't completely understand the functions of these tunnels. Possible explanations of why they where dug between the 12th and 13th centuries include the following: A particular type of mineral was extracted from the soil for the treatment of textiles manufactured during that era; or the tunnels were used to escape enemy forces during seiges; or they were used to hide treasures.

La Garage aux Dimes
This is a symbol of the middle ages. It contains a reconstruction of the old champagne fairs with a scene showing merchants and their products.

Auvers-Sur-Oise
Following in the footsteps of the Impressionists, you will look out on the landscapes that provided them with inspiration. This is where they worked and painted masterpieces. The banks of the Oise are here in all of their tranquility. The church and the square tower are all truly magical. The Auberge Ravoux is where Vincent Van Gogh used to live; his room is still intact.

**Barbizon
In the 19th century, young painters who loved nature were looking for a remote spot not far from Paris where they could “surprise nature” in its own environment. Since the days of Millet, Corot, Diaz, Theodore Rosseau, Barbizon has remained a village of artists. L’ecole de Barbizon, founded at the Auberge Ganne, preserves their memory. The house and studio of Jean-Françoise Millet is also found in this village.

Montfort de L’Amaury
Found on the edge of the forest of Rambouillet, this village is dominated by the ruins of its stronghold. Montfort de L’Amaury has narrow streets lined with houses in brick and stone work or timber-framed. It was the home of Maurice Ravel and the town that fueled his inspiration.

L’Isle-Adam
Close to Paris on the “Route des Impressionists”, this Gallic village became the home of Balzac. It enjoys an ideal location for boating and sailing on the Oise. You can ride in the forest, and it has a golf course of 180 hectares.

**Moret-Sur-Loing
This is the home of the Impressionist painter Alfred Sisley. This village is captivating in its picturesque and romantic views. The Musée du Sucre d’Orge des Religieuses de Moret, Clémenceau’s house, is here. From spring to autumn there is the Sun and Lumière show. There are Impressionist picnics and a large festival. « Moret Il y a 100 ans » which is special in this lovely medieval town.

Other signature villages with untouched charm and distinct character:

Marly-Le-Roi
Maisons Laiffitte
St. Germain en Laye
Bougival
Marnes La Coquette
Sevres
Meudon
Versailles, of course

Markets

**Thursday is market day in Milly-La-Forêt. Just after dawn the ancient "Balles” begin to fill with vendors. The town’s unique 15th century covered marketplace was built of oak and chestnut in 1479. Meat, poultry, dairy products and other produce are sold at the individual stands. Customers come from all over France. The featured items are the perfumed wild strawberries in June and July. The Coulommiers and Brie cheeses come in summer. Raspberries and tiny champignon of Paris and blackberries come in August and September. Fresh chestnuts come in October along with the “meaty” delicate flavored hens and eggs of Houdan.

Market days in the towns:
Avers sur Oise (Saturday and Thursday)
Bougival (Saturday and Wednesday)
Chantilly (Wednesday and Saturday)
Chatou (Thursday-Sunday)
Coulommiers (Saturday and Sunday)
Montfort de L’Amauray (Thursday)
Rambouillet (Wednesday-Sunday)
St. Germain-en-Laye (Friday and Saturday)
Versaille (Tuesday and Thursday-Sunday)

Farms
Les Etournelles (near Chantilly)
This farm was once the hub of a thriving architectural estate. It is today a bourgeois residence with five acres of English gardens. When the farming ceased, the fashionable “Potager” was designed and planted. The property was once again a working farm with one hundred apple trees, sixty pear trees and twenty cherry trees.

Bergerie National of Rabouillet
Constructed in 1786 by Louis XVI, this sheep farm was dedicated to developing rare breeds of sheep. Elite Merino sheep, originally brought from Spain, graze under gnarled apple trees in the surrounding orchards.

Dairy Laitére de La Reine
This dairy was built for a bored Marie Antoinette, who accompanied the king on his hunting sojourns to Rabouillet.

Festivals
March/April:
** Provins—The Eagles of the Rampart—This show presents birds of prey in free flight with flaconers dressed in medieval costume. Wolves have been added as well to enhance the program.
**Spectacle of Machines—This show demonstrates and explains the methods used to attack rampart defenses using wooden machines of war. Besides the firing of such machines, actors simulate fights with swords, clubs and other arms.
**Provins Music Festival (end of May to the end of June)
Rambouillet “Lilly of the Valley” Festival (3rd Sunday of May)

June:
**Moret sur Loing—Picnic and Painting Days—Visitors can follow in the footsteps of Impressionist and landscape artists. Enjoy a picnic lunch with locals in 1900s costumes followed by a boat ride.
**Provins—The Judgement of God Tournament—This day begins with a jousting tournament with impressive stunt sequences to demonstrate the duel which would have pitted count against count in the 13th century. It conjures up the atmosphere of medieval jousting with costumes, arms and accessories recreated in intricate detail.
Chantilly Jockey Club Horse Race (1st and 2nd Sunday of June)
The Marly Fountain Concerts in the Park (4th Sunday May-September 4:30 P.M.)

July:
**Moret-Sur-Loing—Summer, Sound and Light Spectacular—Pageants illustrate the town's history. (Saturday evenings along the banks of the Loing, July 1st –September 15th)
St. Germain en Laye Summer Festival (July 1st-August 15th)

August:
**Provins Harvest festival (the last weekend in August)

September:
Fontainbleau—Grand Week of international horseback riding competition for horses 4-6 years old. Over 140 exhibitors (saddlers, breeders, national stud farms). (the first week of September)
The Festival of Horses—The town of Fontainebleau gives tribute to all equestrian disciplines.
Moret sur Loing—During this week the village of Moret sur Loing celebrates the Roaring 20s. The entire town puts on an air of prohibition and veteran cars parading past with beautiful women inside. There is a lot of Charleston dancing and music from the era.
Croissy-Sur-Seine Carrot Festival (between the 1st and 2nd Sunday of September)
Rambouillet Equestrian Festival

Antiques, Antique Fairs and Markets

Fiori a La Brocante;
**Barbizon—4th Sunday in April
Dourdain—December
**Milly-La-Forêt—2nd weekend in March

Fiori a La Brocante et aux Jambon
Chatou—10 days in early March and 10 days at the end of September

Exposition des Antiquaires
Maison Laffitte—2nd week in September

Individual Antique Shops and Recommendations
The Eclectic Encave of Pierre and Isabelle Chalvignac’s. It is on the rural road which winds through the wheat fields of Mondeville and is along a stone wall of an 18th century farm. The antique shop has many interesting objects.
Antiques Sarah Bouquet and Collette Jacoillot
Place de l’église
78113 Condé Versgre
It has a delightful mixture of Louis XVI furniture and an interesting array of found objects.

Barbizon
La Barbizonnaise
79 rue Grande
01-60-66-27-60

La Grange
8 rue du 23 Août
01-60-66-45-32

Chambon 83 rue Grande 01-60-66-43-55
Moret-Sur-Loing Hassler 39 rue Grande 01-84-45-96-97
Coulommiers Ede La Belle Croix route N34 01-84-03-08-87
Provins L’Antiquaire 38 rue de Changis 01-64-00-07-74	Miguaise 12 rue Friperie 01-64-00-62-55
Bourron-Marlotte Antiquités de Parvis 30 rue Général de Gaulle 01-64-45-94-59 Merklen "Le Pavé du Roy" 01-64-45-96-18	Jaba, Brocante du Pavé du Roy 9 route N7 Ruffin Place Paix 01-64-45-92-73
Fontainebleau Ducre 2 rue des Pins, Place de la République 01-64-22-04-54	Felix-Bost Orthan 57 rue de France 01-64-22-42-35
Hassler 5 rue de la cloche 01-64-22-34-68	Hotel des Ventes (Auction House) 5 rue royale Place du Chateau 01-54-22-27-68
Mendels 29 rue Grande 01-64-22-20-20	Polowski 16 rue de la Cloche
Rest'or 88 rue Artiside Briand 01-64-22-20-20	Thierry May 213 rue Saint-Merry 01-64-22-05-46
Tic et Tac (au) 44 rue de France 01-64-22-17-62